Correlations between air and water motions are neglected.There is a random distribution of normal pressure to the water surface from the turbulent wind.It is usually assumed for the purpose of theoretical analysis that: This pressure fluctuation produces normal and tangential stresses in the surface water, which generates waves. Wave formation on an initially flat water surface by wind is started by a random distribution of normal pressure of turbulent wind flow over the water. Given the variability of wave height, the largest individual waves are likely to be somewhat less than twice the reported significant wave height for a particular day or storm. from a ship's crew) would estimate from visual observation of a sea state. The significant wave height is also the value a "trained observer" (e.g. This figure represents an average height of the highest one-third of the waves in a given time period (usually chosen somewhere in the range from 20 minutes to twelve hours), or in a specific wave or storm system. For weather reporting and for scientific analysis of wind wave statistics, their characteristic height over a period of time is usually expressed as significant wave height. Waves in a given area typically have a range of heights. Further exposure to that specific wind could only cause a dissipation of energy due to the breaking of wave tops and formation of "whitecaps". Wave direction or azimuth (predominantly driven by wind direction)Ī fully developed sea has the maximum wave size theoretically possible for a wind of specific strength, duration, and fetch.Wave period (time interval between arrival of consecutive crests at a stationary point). ![]()
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